Taking the No. 9 Train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai

There is something enduringly romantic about train travel. Out of every single kind of transport option, if time and resources allow, we always like to opt for a train journey as we feel it combines all the best parts of transport. Timeless and charming, choosing to travel by rail is one of the most environmentally friendly ways to get to your destination, all the while allowing you to take in the surrounding landscape.

From all of the experiences we’ve had with rail journeys, the No. 9 overnight train departing from Bangkok rates as one of our favourites of all time. The train was comfortable, efficient and clean, and the entire process, from booking to onboarding, couldn’t have been more straightforward.

If you’re planning a rail journey within your Thai travels, definitely consider making this one. Below are a few tips of what to expect, including; how to book, costs, facilities and our personal experience.

You’ll notice the No. 9 and 10 trains at the station by their pink stripes. These two trains are among the most highly recommended for overnight train travel heading north following their renovation in the past few years.

How to Book your Ticket

We had heard from a couple of sources that it was easier to book trains online and in advance, but in our experience, we found the opposite to be true. When going online, we noticed there was a limited number of options for trains on the day we hoped to travel on, and most were being sold from Bang Sue (a stop further north of the city) rather than Hua Lamphong in the centre.

As we were staying close to Hua Lamphong, we headed over to the station a few days before our intended date of travel and were so glad we did! The woman working within the station was incredibly helpful, giving us a timetable which included costs, dates and times based on the type of train. It was such a straightforward and easy process, and the cost ended up being noticeably cheaper than booking online. This being said, we were lucky to have been travelling at a time when Thailand was not busy with tourism (early 2022), so if you are visiting in the high season and have very specific days you need to travel on to keep to a schedule, booking online and in advance makes sense as some trains are known to book up.

Whether you book online or in person, know that there are multiple train types that offer the service up to Chiang Mai. You’ll notice the No. 7, which is the fastest train and is usually the most popular for a day service. There is also the No. 109, 13, and 51, all of which offer various timetables, but are slightly more dated than the 9 and 10.

You’ll notice that ‘Bangkok Station’ and ‘Hua Lamphong Station’ are used interchangeably, and both are describing the same place. Remember that Hua Lamphong is also the name of the MRT stop that’s located in the lower levels of the same station, connecting the rail line with the city.

Hua Lamphong Station:

 

As Hua Lamphong is in the city centre and is connected to the MRT, it’s by far the easiest station to access. However, if you’re staying north of the city, know that this line calls at Bang Sue junction, which also connects to the MRT line.

How much does it cost?

When we booked our tickets in Spring 2022, we paid 800 thb per person for a 2nd Class A/C Sleeper (the standard seat), which worked out to around £18 p/p at the time. We thought it was incredible value for our money, considering that it would bring us 686km across the country and included our accomodation for the night. It worked out cheaper than a domestic flight as well, with the added plus that train journeys have a much lower carbon footprint than short flights.

Depending on what time of year you book, expect the price of your ticket to range from anywhere from 650 thb -900 thb depending on the train, time, date and seat type. If you’re travelling solo, you’ll notice that the upper bunks are usually slightly cheaper than the bottom bunk, but the extra baht is worth it as we found you get a better sleep on the wider bottom berth.

There is the option to splash out on a 1st Class A/C Sleeper on the No.9, in which you get your own smaller cabin in the train, but this option is considerably more expensive, setting you back anywhere from 1,400 - 1,700 thb (relatively speaking though, if you want to travel in comfort it’s still very good value for your £).

What are the facilities like?

Like most of the transport we took within Bangkok, we were so impressed with how impeccably clean the public spaces were kept. The top berth is unlocked around 8pm, with service staff making up the bunks for you, and curtain rails are able to be pulled across the bunk for privacy - we kept referring to the cabin as a moving pod hostel!

In terms of train travel, we found the facilities quite good, and were especially impressed by how clean all of the cabins and public areas were.

We were told in advance that our train didn’t have a food car, so make sure to double check in advance and pack with you if there is not. If you are packing food on with you, know that there isn’t a huge selection of food at Hua Lamphong, save for a couple of bakeries and vending machines, so we recommend taking away some food or snacks from a street cart or food hall before you board. Remember to bring extra water with you as only one small bottle is provided so stop by a shop before you board - there is a 7Eleven across the Rama IV Rd junction.

Facilities Overview

• Bedding - YES (includes sheet, pillow, blanket + staff that puts this together for you)

• Showers - NO

• Toilets - YES (they are “western-style” flush toilets, but bring toilet napkins if that is your preference as bidets are the most common around Thailand, even when the space features a flush toilet)

• Public Wifi - NO

• Electrical Socket - YES (one per bunk)

• Food - NO (there is not a food cart on the train unless it’s otherwise specified with your particular journey or seat type)

• Water - YES (they provide one free water bottle. Pack extra before you board)

• Smoking Section - NO (Alcohol and smoking aren’t permitted anywhere on board)

• Additional - NO

What to Expect

As this journey was our first overnight train experience ever, we didn’t really know what to expect from it. However, we were so pleased when we were greeted by the staff before heading on to the train, which was due to leave Bangkok at 6.10pm and arrive at 7am the next morning. 

We were given seats 19 and 20, turning in towards each other with a small foldable table in between, with quite a bit of room for luggage below the seats. As so many people come off/on, especially throughout the night, we recommend keeping your luggage on you. Although Thailand can sometimes be renowned for relaxed timing, we didn’t find this to be the case with public transport in Bangkok, and the train left at 6.10 on the dot.

When the train pulls away from Hua Lamphong station, you’ll usually have a couple more hours of daylight which will give you views out to the northern outskirts of Bangkok. Some of it, especially coming out of the station at a start, isn’t anything to write home about, but it definitely offers a different perspective of the city than what you’d see on a walking tour or on the Skytrain.

The attendants start converting the seats into bunks around 8pm, where they make the beds up for you. They give each person a sleeping pad, fresh sheets, a pillow with a clean pillowcase, and a new towel-like blanket. The train journey as a whole is relatively quiet and smooth, rocking like a normal rail would, but not in an aggressive way. The small bunk offers a reading light and an electrical socket to plug in your phone, and have small drapes that you can pull across the bunks to give you some privacy, making the train (like we mentioned above) almost like a moving pod hostel.

All in all, we got a great sleep, which may have been due in part to the fact that we only shared our cabin with a few other people. Do keep in mind that the lights stay on all night as they continue to make stops, which is why we both found the bottom bunk to be a better sleep (the drapes aren’t blackout). Pack earplugs and an eye mask if you’re a light sleeper depending on who might be in your cabin.

The train driver wakes you around 6am via an announcement over the speakers - about one hour before you arrive in Chiang Mai station. This gives the attendants time to pack up the bunks (which they do so very efficiently), allowing you to catch the incredible sunrise from your seat, made more beautiful by the surrounding landscapes, which get more mountainous the closer you get to Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai Railway Station:

 

When you arrive in Chiang Mai, we recommend knowing where your accomodation is in relation to the Railway Station (which lies just east of the old city). Most Tuk Tuk and rot daeng drivers will not be able to speak or read English, even in the context of Google Maps. If you’re able to, hop into the front seat and give them directions as you drive, it’ll save both of you time. As with all Tuk Tuk drivers around Thailand, remember to agree on a price beforehand.

We ended up taking the No. 10 train back to the capital after our time living in Chiang Mai, which was an identical experience to the No. 9 north.

Travelling by Train in Thailand?

Although we mention that we had great luck with heading into a station for timetables, knowing about the different routes around the country is a great shout before you go. These are the three sites that we found very useful for finding out more about train travel within Thailand, and how we knew to book a No. 9!

The Man in Seat 61
12Go Asia
Thailand Trains

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If you’re headed to Chiang Mai from Bangkok, or vice versa, definitely consider taking the overnight train!

Happy Travels,
Sam + Steve

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